The skincare aisle is overwhelming for acne patients, hundreds of products claim to clear breakouts, but many can actually make acne worse. Here is what the evidence says.
The Fundamentals of Acne Skincare
Cleanse gently twice daily. Aggressive scrubbing or over-cleansing strips natural oils and triggers the skin to produce more sebum in compensation. Use a gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser with lukewarm water.
Never skip moisturizer. Dry, irritated skin is more prone to breakouts, not less. Use a lightweight, oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturizer after cleansing.
Always use SPF. Many acne treatments increase photosensitivity. A broad-spectrum SPF 30+ non-comedogenic sunscreen is essential.
Ingredients That Help
- Retinoids (adapalene, tretinoin): Increase cell turnover, unclog pores, reduce inflammation, the gold standard
- Benzoyl peroxide: Kills C. acnes bacteria and helps clear existing breakouts
- Salicylic acid: A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates inside the pore
- Niacinamide: Reduces sebum production and improves barrier function
- Azelaic acid: Anti-inflammatory, reduces post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
What Makes Acne Worse
- Heavy, comedogenic oils (coconut oil, cocoa butter applied to the face)
- Silicones in makeup primers (trapping bacteria)
- Physical exfoliants (microbead scrubs, loofahs on acne-prone skin)
- Picking and squeezing, dramatically increases risk of scarring and spreading
- Touching your face frequently
When Skincare Is Not Enough
For moderate-to-severe acne, prescription treatments or clinical trials may be appropriate. NuLine is enrolling adults 18 to 44 for an acne mRNA vaccine study. Learn more.